David Moralejo, Head of Editorial Content for Condé Nast Traveller Spain.
I’m not from Madrid—hardly anyone in Madrid is. But I’ve lived here longer than anywhere else, and not only that: ever since I was a child, I knew I would live in Madrid. I’ve always had family in the city—even my great-grandmother lived here, on fancy Ibiza street!—so, I’ve known the city well for as long as I can remember.
Traveling so much allows me to say without fear of contradiction that Madrid is the best capital city in the world to live in. Now I’m even afraid to say it, because it seems that by repeating it so often, the idea has really taken hold, and there are more and more of us. The city has changed a lot in recent years; now it’s more international, more expensive, more sophisticated… more like other cities. So now I just hope it retains its spirit, the authenticity of its neighborhoods, its nightlife, its traditional bars, its warm people. That’s why, please, if you come to Madrid… don’t order a latte, always a cortado. Don’t have granola for breakfast, ask for churros. And remember: here we don’t do brunch, we go out de cañas from 1 pm… until dusk. — David Moralejo, Head of Editorial Content
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Where to stay
Day 1: Long Walks and Plenty of Small Plates
Breakfast spot: Pastries at Alma Nomad Bakery
Alma Nomad Bakery
A treat as simple as a ham and cheese croissant becomes something delicious here. Every time I go in, I fall in love with a new pastry.
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Morning activity: Walk through Los Rosales
Los Rosales
Savor the jaunt through Los Rosales—make stops at the Temple of Debod (an Egyptian temple dating back to the 2nd century BC) and the Royal Palace (the largest of its kind in Europe), with unbeatable views of the mountains and centuries of history all around you.
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Lunch spot: Local favorites at El Pedrusco
El Pedrusco
You’ll find the best traditional cuisine here, cooked in a wood-fired oven—and the owners always make me feel right at home.
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Afternoon activity: Shop through Contemporánea Condeduque
Dinner: Small plates at Amis
Amis
This is a must-stop for its selection of wines from around the world and its highly shareable dishes.
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Evening activity: Two vibes, multiple cocktails
Kinki
Go for a drink at Kinki, a tiny, super-modern bar, and follow it up with a visit to a spot that embodies the Madrid of yesteryear: Moloko Sound Club—an indie temple playing the best music from the ‘80s and ‘90s.
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Day 2: The Classic Sights
Breakfast spot: A sweet start at La Duquesita
La Duquesita
You’ll find the best chocolate palmeras (meaning palm trees, or elephant ears) in the world here. Show up early; they sell out almost every day.
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Morning activity: Embrace the chaos at El Rastro
El Rastro
I love visiting the antique shops at El Rastro on Saturdays (the crowds are more manageable than they are on Sundays). Fewer people means you can spend more time wandering around the shops before going out for tapas. If you like snails, you simply must pop into the Casa Amadeo bar and sit out on its sunny terrace. It doesn’t get more Madrid than this.
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Lunch spot: Market-fresh fare at La Tasquita de Enfrente
Afternoon activity: Soak in the vibes of Gran Vía
Gran Vía
It may always be crowded, yes, but it’s still worth seeing. The buildings, neon lights, the sprawling stores, and historic theaters—this is Madrid’s most iconic street. Among its architectural gems is the building that once housed Loewe’s first boutique, which is currently undergoing a complete renovation. And on the other side, right where Gran Vía begins, you’ll find the world’s largest Zara.
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Dinner: More small plates at La Llorería
La Llorería
It’s incredible how so many dishes can come out of such a small place—and every single one is so delicious! Book ahead.
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Evening activity: An exploration of Salesas Chueca
Day 3: A Hearty Dose of Culture
Breakfast spot: Pastries at Estela Hojaldre
Estela Hojaldre
The best puff pastry in Madrid. Bonus: Estela, the owner, is beyond charming. Once you’re done, walk across the street to the Basilica of Jesús de Medinaceli, where a 17th-century carving—rescued by the Trinitarians—is vis considered a city treasure.
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Morning activity: Soak in some culture at Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum
Both its temporary exhibitions and its collection make it one of the best museums in the world. And don’t forget to visit its shop, it’s fantastic. Another selling point: This museum is opposite the Prado Museum, which I haven’t recommended because I’m assuming you’ll be visiting it.
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Lunch spot: Paella at El Jardín del Ritz
El Jardín del Ritz
Here, they prepare authentic Valencian paella with the seal of approval of chef Quique Dacosta. Try their delicious chicken skewers, too—they’re addictive.
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Afternoon activity: Go gallery hopping
Dinner: A show at El Corral de la Morería
Corral de la Morería
This is a total trifecta: the best sherry cellar in the world, a Michelin-starred menu, and unforgettable flamenco performances. All the celebrities have been here… both to perform and to watch the show.
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Evening activity: Experience Spanish Broadway
Teatro Real
Madrid is said to be the Spanish Broadway, and yes, there are countless musicals on the bill. But if you want to improve your Spanish, I recommend going to the Teatro Español, a beautiful place that always has an excellent program of classics from Spanish literature.
